The Syrian town of Al Raqqa: Civil society, military brigades & the administration of the liberated city

16 September 2013 
Mohammed Al Attar
Ever since being liberated from regime control on March 4, 2013, the city of Al Raqqa has become the focus of Syrians’ attention as the first regional capital to have experienced some degree of autonomy. How do its people manage their affairs? How do they live? What is the reality of the military brigades on the ground? Who are these brigades? What is that unites or divides them? What relationship do they have to the civilian population? What kind of model does Al Raqqa represent?

The mysterious disappearance of Father Paulo
We arrived in Al Raqqa on the evening of July 29. The city was almost deserted. People had barely finished their Ramadan iftar and had yet to take to the streets after a hard day’s fast. We were fortunate that the city’s most famous café, Apple, had begun to open its doors. The café is the destination of choice for the city’s youth and is situated near to the Al Rashid Gardens in the city centre, facing the Old Church. The civilian revolutionaries occupy the corner alongside the church from where they set out on their protests and demonstrations.

We had been sitting in the café for less than half an hour when a rumour started going round that Father Paolo, who had last been seen in town at three that afternoon, had «disappeared». More troubling was that he had failed to attend an iftar to which he’d been invited by a local family. The Jesuit priest was known for fasting during Ramadan, his habit for the many years he had been resident in Syria and an affirmation of his belief of that Christians and Muslims had much in common.

The day before, July 28, Father Paolo had taken part in a demonstration organized by civil society youth groups, principally the Union of Free Students. Paolo gave a short speech in which he greeted those present and said how happy he was to be there in Al Raqqa, which he described as «the first capital of Free Syria».
The café’s whispers quickly became openly stated questions: «Where is Father Paolo?». Al Raqqa is a city by name, but really it is more akin to a vast village in which no secret can be kept for long. Someone dashed up to report that «S», a young man known to most of those in the café, had been told by Father Paolo that he might disappear for three days and if he did, no one should be concerned or suggest that some evil had befallen him. S’s account was bolstered by further stories of the desire which Paolo had expressed to numerous others he had met; his intention to get in touch with the Islamic State in Iraq and Syria (ISIS). 

Some of them had tried to dissuade him, but without success it seems. Abdullah, one of the most active young revolutionaries in the city, told me that he had met Paolo in Turkey just days before he came to Al Raqqa and had tried, fruitlessly, to get him to change his mind. Others tried the same and likewise failed. His friends reported that the day before his disappearance Father Paolo had visited the ISIS headquarters and emerged in high spirits. He had a good feeling. He had announced to his friends that he would persist, as he intended to meet with Abu Bakr Al Baghdadi himself. In any case, all the accounts agreed that Father Paolo had intended to return to the ISIS headquarters the next day. Some of his friends had heard Father Paolo mention a plan to act as an intermediary in order to stop the on-going conflict in the north between some of the Islamic brigades (including ISIS) and Kurdish fighters accused of working with the armed forces of the Syrian regime. He also wanted to find out what had become of individuals abducted by the jihadist group, in particular Firas Al Hajj Saleh, Ibrahim Al Ghazi and two French journalists
.

The news that Paolo had anticipated a three-day absence assuaged the fears of many of those present, though some remained dubious of this account. One of these doubters, a young man working in the city’s media centre, asked us to accompany him to his car for a reason he described as «very important». On the way we discovered that we were going to meet Abu Eissa, the commander of 11 Division. The 11 Division had been formed just days before our arrival and was the largest local military unit affiliated with the Syrian Free Army.. read more:

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